| INTRODUCTIONS
Let me start with a disclaimer. I am not saying this method will
work for all dogs all the time. It has worked very well for me with
spayed and neutered dogs.
PUPPIES It is easier to introduce a puppy or younger dog into a household with adults. The most important thing to remember with puppies under 6 months is that when they are with the adult dog, they must be observed at all times. Puppies do things that annoy adults and the adult will snap to teach the puppy a lesson and its place in the pack order. With a sensitive puppy, this could make him or her very fearful of the adult and cause a set back. But the basic method for introducing both puppies and adults to the household is pretty much the same. The new dog is brought into the house while the resident dog is outside. I put the new dog in a crate, which is placed in a high traffic area…a place where the family usually spends most of their time, a kitchen or family room. In this manner, the new dog can accustom itself to the rhythms, sounds and smells of the household. It is quite permissible for the resident dog to walk over and sniff at the newcomer’s crate. However at the first sign of aggression, i.e., hackling, growling, posturing, they are disciplined. If the crated dog reacts aggressively, bang on the top of the crate while telling him “NO!” If that doesn’t work, “earthquake” the crate…rock it back and forth from side to side while telling them “NO!”. The owner must be very vigilant and very consistent in stopping signs and sounds of aggression from either dog. Do not let adult dogs meet for at least 4-6 weeks. Puppies may meet the resident in 2-3 weeks depending on the resident dog’s reaction. In this time period, the resident is let out, brought in and put away somewhere such as another crate or another room. Then the new dog is let outside to run around and do his business. He comes in, gets some time in the house, and is crated again. The resident comes out and gets some special attention. Everything is done in shifts in this “getting used to each other” period. It is time consuming and can be difficult, but worth it in the long run. A little side note: feed the new dog in the crate, and make sure every time he goes in, even if he has to be shoved, to give him treat. This may help him become accustomed to being crated more quickly. With Puppies, start in the yard. One person has the resident dog
on a lead, and the other has the puppy. If it is a young puppy, 4
months or under, he may run loose, but have someone available and ready
to grab him at the first sign of problems. Let them sniff and interact,
being very vigilant for signs of antagonism. This can go on for 10-14
days. If all is well in these sessions, let the adult off lead, but
keep very close watch and stay close to them. I am loathe to leave
small puppies running with big dogs…only because they can be hurt by the
big dog playing, or hurt themselves by pushing too hard playing.
If all goes well, move them into the house. MAKE SURE THERE IS NOTHING
TO ARGUE OVER ANYWHERE. THIS MEANS BONES, TOYS, FOOD, CHEWIES, FOOD
BOWLS, BLANKETS. Eventually they may be able to share some toys,
but I prefer to leave those in crates. My own dogs don’t mind
sharing Booda –bones, but nothing else.
ADULTS Introducing a new adult may or may not work. It helps if both
adults had been socialized with dogs before, and if they are of opposite
sex. I leave the crate situation going for at least 4 weeks, more
likely six. Trying to put the new dog in an outdoor run with the
resident dog out in the yard, in my experience, usually just creates more
antagonism. This can work if you are willing to stand outside the
entire time they are out, to correct any signs of aggression on either
dog’s part. The next step is to take both dogs out for a walk
off the property. The person with the resident dog goes out first,
taking the dog out to the street or sidewalk. The other person follows
with the new dog. The two dogs are walked next to each other, but
not close. They should be at least 6 feet apart when at the end of
the lead. I prefer a 4 foot lead for this part of the introduction.
These walks can go on for several weeks, until the time neither dog reacts
to the other’s presence. Once that happens you can let them
move closer, always alert for the body language signaling any trouble.
This process can take several weeks until they can be walked close to each
other with no signs of aggression. Exhibiting playful behavior is a good
sign. The next step is to bring both dogs on the property at the end of
the walk, and stay in the yard with them both on lead. The calmest
dog can be let off lead, while being closely watched. Then switch,
putting the lead back onto the calmest dog and let the other loose, being
vigilant all the time. After several weeks of this, you can try them
both off lead, once you have cleared the area of anything that could possibly
cause a fight…sticks, balls, plastic cartons, toys, whatever.
Stay near, watching them very carefully and separate at even the slightest
hint of a problem. If all goes well, after walking them (it burns
off energy and calms them down) let them play in the front yard together.
I never leave them unattended until I am VERY SURE they are getting along
well and the chance of a fight is as minimal as possible. ( However sure
of that you can be !) The dogs can be moved into the house together following
the same methods: both on lead, one off/one on, both off closely observed,
each step lasting several weeks. I would never leave same sex alone
unattended in the house, and wait for those of the opposite sex for at
least 6-12 months. Start by leaving them for short periods of time
and returning. The point of return is a dangerous moment. Both
dogs are cranked up and happy to see you and this could cause a fight,
so be prepared.
FIGHTS
Fights disrupt and set back the introduction process. If there
are injuries, do not initiate any contact between them until all the injuries
are healed. If there are no injuries, give them a week or so to calm
down before re-introducing them. Once again there should be no contact
in this cooling off period. Start at the beginning, with one dog
in a crate and one out. Any signs of aggression should be severely
disciplined. If they show signs of aggression, wait for another week.
Once they appear to be comfortable in each other’s presence, you may begin
the process all over again. Remember that one fight may make them
enemies for life.
CATS Introducing a dog to resident cats is a little different. Bring the
dog in on leash and watch the cats’ reactions to the dog, and vice versa.
If the cats don’t feel threatened or appear defensive, and the dog isn’t
straining on the leash to get to the cats, it will probably work out.
In my experience, puppies always chase cats. It is a puppy thing.
Yes, they can be stopped and disciplined, but it usually takes a while
for it to sink in. If they catch the kitty, they usually don’t do
damage unless the cats hurts them. Then all bets are off. Most
dogs will be interested in the cats, but not go into the predatory mode…ears
forward, tail curled up tight, head, shoulders, back in a straight line,
stalking. If they show this type of behavior, it may not work, or
the cats and dogs will have to be kept separate. Now it has been
established that the dog is not predatory, and the cats feel okay around
him, introductions begin. I crate the dog when I am not home, and
when I am home, keep the dog on a leash that is attached to my waist.
This allows some reaction time, and limits how far he can go if he decides
to chase kitties. Another method is to put up a cheap wooden screen
door in front of one room, leaving the regular door open. This arrangement
allows the dog and cats to sniff and see each other, but with a safety
barrier. Make sure the regular door is closed and keep them separate when
unsupervised or if no one is home. Keep a very close watch on them
until it is obvious they are comfortable together.
Kittens Introducing kittens requires a totally different technique. Kittens
are very small and with their quick movements, VERY reminiscent of prey.
They cannot climb, claw or escape from the dogs as quickly an adult cat
can because they are young and not fully developed. When bringing
in a kitten, I put her in a separate room initially. Once she becomes acclimated
to the environment and learns to trust me, I hold the kitten and let the
dog sniff at her. If I have a very nice, calm dog whom I know likes cats,
I will let him lay on the bed, with the kitten loose, giving the kitten
time to approach the dog at her own pace. When the kitten reaches
four months, I will put her in a crate, with a litter box, food and a towel.
The crate is in a high traffic area, so the kitten can become accustomed
to the sounds, smells and sights of the house. (I recommend a 700
Vari-kennel type crate…kittens can slip through the wire ones.)
It is better to do this, under supervision so the dog(s) cannot terrorize
the kitten by pawing at the crate and moving it around. If on one
is home to monitor the animals, keep the kitten in a separate room.
I do not feel comfortable letting the kitten run loose in the house until
they are at least 8 months-1 year and able to escape or defend themselves
if necessary.
GENERAL Dynamics can change. A young dog may fit in well initially, but as he gets older may want to challenge the other dog for top position. If he continues fighting and challenging, they may have to be kept separate for life. You can have two dogs live together in harmony for years. They both have a bad day, and a fight ensues. If it is a bad one with serious injuries, or you have a dog that bears a grudge, they may never live in harmony again. An older dog can become blind, or have painful joint problems and no longer want to rough house. They may react accordingly when a young dog does not take the hint and leave them alone, starting a fight that the older dog is likely to lose. The best tools for success are being able to read your dog’s body language and your knowledge of your dog’s personality. Dogs, like people, have their individual quirks. Sometimes two dogs will just have a personality conflict and will not be able to get along. In this case, keep them separate forever, or re-home one dog. The steps I have outlined are time consuming and quite often troublesome. But a good introduction sets the stage for the future relationship. Bad beginnings can make enemies for life. The time and effort to start things off right are well rewarded when you have two dogs, or a dog and a cat, living together happily and peacefully. A FINAL NOTE OF CAUTION: If you leave dogs, or dogs and cats home alone together, there is a very real possibility that you may come home to serious injuries, or the death of one of the animals. The author currently has 15 akitas, 12 of which run together and live with 20 cats. However, when she is not home, certain dogs are kept separate from others. Jodi Marcus November 1999 This document is the sole property of Jodi Marcus and Akita Rescue,
Mid-Atlantic Coast, Inc.
|